KETAN PANDIT

2025 . FIELD NOTES . ZANSKAR, LADAKH

Ladakh, Twelve Years Later

Surrender to the majesty of these mountains, and rough terrain, and you will never be the same again.

No one who goes to Ladakh, returns as the same person.

My first trip to Ladakh was in Sep 2013. Until then, mountains were hill stations nestled in easy to reach places for a weekend getaway. Ladakh changed that.

A pan of a mountain range in black and white, as seen in Rangdum
Mountain Ranges, in Rangdum, Ladakh

I returned to Ladakh again, in July 2025, almost 12 years after my first visit. And my first impression was ‘wow, nothing seems to have changed.”, but I couldn’t have been further from the truth. While on the surface of it, it seems as if nothing has changed. The airport is still the same. Water and electricity can still run out. Baggage still comes over the 2 conveyor belts.

But the more time you spend in Ladakh, and its locals, the clearer it becomes that a lot has changed. Leh market, which was once exclusively the purview of Ladakhis, has now a lot of Kashmiri merchants selling their wares. In fact, I was shocked to see a Karim’s.

Zanskar Ranges from Pensi La, Ladakh, in black and white
Zanskar Ranges from Pensi La

Just like the rest of India, there is rampant, albeit controlled construction all over. Another 2 years, and we will have Manali part deux. Easy access brings with its own set of challenges.

While you still come across a Moshe from Israel trying to find himself in this far off land. You also see a Prince from Chandigarh testing out his new Thar in Leh, because he can.

You will come across over enthu-cutlets with no respect for the altitude, and no awareness of their bodies, struggling with AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) because they thought they’re ready for the ‘mountains’.

Drang Drung Glacier snaking through Zanskar, in black and white
Drang Drung Glacier – Snaking Through Zanskar

In fact, Ladakh is not just another range of mountains. It is demanding, unforgiving and ruthless. Go to Ladakh with your hat in hand, and you will be alright. Go with a conqueror’s mindset, Ladakh will humble you for life.

Either way, you will come back a changed person.

The photographs from this trip live in the Zanskar album.

Photographs made in July, 2025.

Sony α7R V  ·  24–70mm, 85mm

Zanskar · Landscapes · Field Notes