No one who goes to Ladakh, returns as the same person.

My first trip to Ladakh was in Sep 2013. Until then, mountains were hill stations nestled in easy to reach places for a weekend getaway.

Ladakh changed that.

in returned to Ladakh again, in July 2025, almost 12 years after my first visit. And my first impression was ‘wow! nothing seems to have changed.”, but I couldn’t have been further from the truth. While on the surface of it, it seems as if nothing has changed. The airport is still the same. Water and electricity can still run out. Baggage still comes over the 2 conveyor belts.

But the more time you spend in Ladakh, and it’s locals, the clearer it becomes that a lot has changed. Leh market, which was once exclusively the purview of Ladakhis, has now a lot of Kashmiri merchants selling their wares. Infact, I was shocked to see a Karim’s

Just like the rest of India, there is rampant, albeit controlled construction all over. Another 2 years, and we will have Manali part deux. Easy access brings with it it’s own set of challenges.

While you still come across a Moshe from Israel trying to find himself in this far off land. You also see a Prince from Chandigarh testing out his new Thar in Leh, because he can.

You will come across over enthu-cutlets with no respect for the altitude, and no awareness of their bodies, struggling with AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) because they thought they’re ready for the ‘mountains’.

Infant, Ladakh is not just another range of mountains. It is demanding, unforgiving and ruthless. Go to Ladakh with you hat in hand, and you will be alright. Go with a conquerors mindset, Ladakh will humble you for life.

Either way, you will come back a changed person.